January 30 :: Puerto Vallarta, Mexico - FINAL POST

January 30 :: Puerto Vallarta, Mexico :: 125 km / 2809km total

Well, Tim is home safe and sound, so with a clear conscience and a simplified task ahead I pedaled out of Tomatlan onto the last ride of the trip. Not an easy ride, though - a climb from 200 up to 1000 metres above sea level, just touching on some pine forest, then plummeting down to sea level into Puerto Vallarta. I started very tired, the legs were heavy, and the first flattish 40km went by too slowly. Then the climb began. I smacked myself into wakefulness, the task now immediate and in front. Up, up, up. Not like before, not like the big rise out of Cordoba to Mexico's high plateau, or the (even worse) hellishly body-and-soul-destroying ride through the Carretera de la Muerte, but enough to make me grind it out and look forward to the summit. Just after passing El Tinto (into the pine forest) I crested, and laughed out loud, it was all over, pretty much, the hard part was over. All the hills behind now, the countless, aching, sweating climbs, the thousands of kilometres. Now, all would be easy.

I rocketed down, fully enjoying the beautiful, winding, rolling descent from pine to palm and the Pacific. Then, past a series of megaresorts and luxury homes to get to Puerto Vallarta proper. A few phone calls helped with the airline and ticket changes (thanks Tim and Dad!) and now I'm set, flying home tonight, my flight 5 hours away. So this will be the last entry of the trip.

Mexico. Its changed a lot in the past 20 years, and is not the dirt-poor country it used to be, not so long ago. Generally this is good for the bike tourist, and tourist in general - a wide range of accomodation options, food and drink are generally and frequently available. The roads are good, the drivers are decent, the people are friendly, helpful, and safe to be among. Its still a great value for the $$, still... everything is cheaper here than at home, about 50% on average. Its certainly more developed than most countries I've cycled in, notably ahead of the 5 Central American countries to the South of it, and more developed than most of the Asian and African countries I've been to (except Singapore). Not quite First World, but definitely not Third World - maybe on par with Morocco or Turkey, but hard to say. There is very little heart-wrenching poverty, at least on the surface, and we travelled in some of the poorest areas of the country. I certainly would come back!

Sunrise over a misty field in Mexico

January 29 :: Tomatlan, Mexico

January 29 :: Tomatlan, Mexico :: 129 km / 2684km total

Yet another hot, hard, grind of a ride, but I love it! Today started with a 5km climb that had sweat dripping off my face before sunrise. The hills moderated for a bit after that, and I was able to push out some fast k's, aggressively riding down on the aerobars, getting as far as I could before the Sun started to make a real difference. Onwards up the dry Highway 200 that barely sees the coastline... a hot, dusty, sem-arid ride. I was hoping for a hotel at La Cumbre (after 116km), but no luck. I turned inland to the larger, almost-tourist-town of Tomatlan for the night.

Its about 100km from here to Puerto Vallarta!

January 28 :: Melaque, Mexico

January 28 :: Melaque, Mexico :: 112 km / 2555km total

Two flats slowed my morning ride, but the lack of hills made up for the tube changes. By mid-morning I entered the long 16km beach arc which is Manzanillo. Now, where's Tim? After some phone calls and email checking it seemed that his latest known plan was to be home in Toronto... tonight! That would mean an early morning bus ride out of Manzanillo well before I arrived here, in fact, I pictured him at the Air Canada desk in Puerto Vallarta, 300km away, trying to change his flight at the very moment I was struggling through the heat and beach traffic... so I pedalled through, only stopping for a quick lunch. I pushed on through the heat and some very minor hills to get to Melaque. Melaque, a rustic tourist town, happens to be a big Canadian snowbird hangout, and its quite the change to see as many gringos (Canadians no less!) wandering down the street as Mexicans. Lots of French being spoken, as well.

Upon checking email here it turns out that Tim was still in Manzanillo, after all! I had passed him without knowing or suspecting it. He's sick of some form, but in good hands - he's staying at Manzanillo's top, 5-star resort, and BEST of all, he has his mother there to take care of him! Talk about luxury upon luxury (for being sick, that is). There's little I can do for him, I think, that would improve upon his current situation, so I will continue forwards. Its 2 days of heat and hills for me to Puerto Vallarta, or a 4 hour bus ride for him.

Pictures from the past few days

La Carretera de la Muerte (The Road of Death) from the bus - I gave Tim the camera... y'know, banditos...

La Carretera de la Muerte


La Carretera de la Muerte

Zihuatanejo

View from our beach huts, Troncones

Mandatory Sunset over the Pacific picture

Surfer in Nexpa

Chickens in Nexpa

Playa Maruata

Dive-bombing pelicans at Playa Maruata

Towards the end of the coastal hills, on the Pacific

January 27 :: Tecoman, Mexico

January 27 :: Tecoman, Mexico :: 107 km / 2443km total

Refreshed after a big lobster meal last night, I rode out before first light, back into the hills. I was sweating before sunrise, rolling the bike over ridge after ridge. Eventually the hills gave way, as did Michoacan (sp?) State, and I entered Colima State on the flats. Hot, hot, but flat, I pressed along, down on my aerobars to punch a hole through the variable winds. Crossing speed bumps at Cerro de Ortega I had a brief conversation with some RV drivers from Port Hope, Ontario. The km's tick by SO much easier on the flats, and it wasn't too long before Tecoman appeared. Manzanillo is 70km away... an easy short and flat day tomorrow that for once I will beat out the Sun on!

January 26 :: Playa Maruata, Mexico

January 26 :: Playa Maruata, Mexico :: 100 km / 2336km total

Tim has decided to scoot ahead up the coast to meet up with his mom in Manzanillo and avoid the heat and hills in this next section. Not a bad option since she is staying at a 5-star resort... even if he gets a taste of it it'll be nicer than the life we've been living! I waited with him for the bus at Caleta de Campos, then peddled Northwards alone. It'll be just me on the bike for 3 days.

Ankle taped up again, I rode into the hills. Today's entire 100km was a rollercoaster of ups and downs, from high tableland to river valley, following the rocky coastline Northwards. As per usual, the heat began to build and at times I was riding on the wrong side of the road to scavenge some shade. Traffic is incredibly light, and I almost have the road to myself... both sides. Just before things got too unbearable I rolled into Maruata, today's target. Accomodation here is known to be spotty, and I paid a very overpriced $20 for a room... makes me think of some places I've stayed in Africa, India, etc. Ah well. A great shrimp meal put a big smile on my face... now off to stretch, ice down my ankle, and prepare for tomorrow.

(Internet too slow here to upload pictures)

January 25 :: Caleta de Campos, Mexico

January 25 :: Caleta de Campos, Mexico :: 140 km / 2236km total

Out before first light, but it was so warm that Tim was sweating up the first climb - before sunrise. Back onto the main coastal road, I was not feeling my usual self - the "beyond-the-envelope" ride I put in 2 days ago will take beyond this trip to recover from. Legs heavy, ankle sore and taped up, minor pains, it just wasn't happening. 50km in I decided to play my trump card, the one I'd been holding back ever since we started this trip, 2000km ago.

"Tim, take the lead!"

I slipped in behind Tim and drafted closely, tightly, now moving forward so much more easily along the flattish terrain. Not more than a few km along we met up with 4 local cyclists (its Sunday, after all) and the 6 of us rode along for about 30km, packriding. It was great! Eventually we had to part ways, and again I hung onto Tim's rear wheel. He was hammering! I couldn't believe how fast he was pushing us along. But the temperature kept rising, and then we slammed into some coastal hills, 30km from the finish. Heat and hills are not Tim's favourite, especially in tandem with each other, so the Anderson Express Train was derailed. I took the lead back over, urging us on. The temperature on my saddlebag thermometer (shaded side) read 35C. Slowly, we rolled into Caleta de Campos. After the usual post-ride shower we went to a neighbouring beach, had lunch, and are preparing for tomorrow.